Trip Report: Isle Royale National Park
Isle Royale National Park: Greenstone Ridge Trail
45 miles + 3 days = 1 epic Adventure
Itinerary: This is an eastbound island traverse arriving at Windigo and departing from Rock Harbor via seaplane. The eastbound route positions the more difficult backpacking, both physically and mentally, near the beginning of the journey. Backpackers will be rewarded with the best views, lower daily mileages, and more comforts at the finish.
A map of the trail across the island
Campsite List: Windigo – Desor South – West Chickenbone – Daisy Farm – Rock Harbor
Daily Milage: 13.5 – 15 – 8 – 7
Isle Royale National Park is the least visited US National Park. Now, having been there, its easy to see why. Isle Royale is an island located in northern Lake Superior, the worlds largest lake. Because of this visitors must arrive by ferry (the most poplar option) or seaplane; That is after a lengthy drive from the airport. From Ann Arbor, its about a nine hour drive to Houghton, Mi, where the seaplane departs. For this adventure I recommend driving into Houghton and booking a hotel for the night. That way you’d be able to get a good dinner, one final night’s sleep in a bed, and a hearty breakfast before arriving on the island.
Day 1 started by taking a seaplane to Windigo. The charter, Isle Royale Seaplanes, provides a great experience. The pilots are knowledgeable and professional. The flights are comfortable and quick (30-45mins). Best of all, the aerial views are spectacular! Arriving in the wilderness by seaplane is something not many people. The views are the type you’d typically only see in nature documentaries. They left me awestruck. Its definitely something I’ll never forget.
Windigo, the first stop on the trail.
Its key to remember how remote this park is. When arriving in Windigo, depending on the time of year, there might not be anyone else there! The island’s facilities aren’t fully staffed until June. Because of this, you may experience a bit of drop shock; disorientation upon arrival. This phenomenon is both normal and expected. To overcome this remember the research, prep, and planning that went into an adventure like this. Make your way to the check-in area, head to the bathroom, take a deep breath, and go.
The chariot awaits!
You got this!
At Windigo there are potable water spigots, full service restrooms, and a small store for supplies. Once supplies are gathered the trek begins.
Day 1 from Windigo to South Desor campground is about 13 miles total. This section of trail meanders its way from the harbor towards the Greenstone Ridge Trail junction. At the junction, turn right to begin the ascent towards the ridge trail. Once on the Greenstone Ridge Trail, the ascent to the ridge is a steep, but manageable, hike through mixed forest. On this portion of trail the vegetation is relatively sparse beneath the canopy of spruce and pine, and the trail is wide enough for backpackers to hike side by side.
The views from the trail’s narrow ridge are truly spectacular and unique for a Midwestern trek. When looking towards the horizon the only thing I could see was blue sky peaking through the trees. It’s a view more reminiscent of a mountain in new England than the Midwest. It’s a surreal feeling being level with the heavens in virtually untouched wilderness.
Northern view from the Greenstone Ridge.
The majority of day 1 consisted of gradual ascents and descents along the ridgeline until nearing the campsite; When a switchback filled descent leads hikers back down to the forest floor. Off the ridge, without the protection of the lake’s gentle breeze, the island’s natives (read: mosquitos and black flies) lie ready to feast.
The campsites at South Desor, like the island’s other interior campsites are primitive. The sites are tent-only and typically include a few single campsites, one group campsite, and an outhouse. Also, like the other interior campsites, it is located on an inland lake. So if there are no algae blooms you should be able to filter and refill your water. If algae blooms are present, you should check the official NPS website to confirm, the water is toxic even if filtered. That would make this route impossible so make sure to check ahead if you plan on visiting in summer.
The stretch of trail between South Desor and West Chickenbone offers backpackers the first glimpse of the trail’s namesake stone. Day two, at 15miles, is also the longest hike of the journey. It begins in the deep woods as a gradual ascent to the ridge (and escape the mosquitos).
Before being treated to the comforts of the ridgeline, backpackers will encounter scars from the harsh reality that is the wilderness’ brutal winter. Navigating a labyrinth of downed trees, mixed with the occasional washed out trail, was a new challenge for me. Most trails I’ve encountered (with the exception of Denali NP) have been “groomed” or at least visible. In Isle Royale, instead of being groomed by the park service, oftentimes the route has been shaped by nature. Downed trees, beaver dams, and flooding on this stretch of trail completely destroyed it in plenty of spots. Moderate route-finding skills were essential for several hundred yards.
Once again the day ends with a descent into camp. West Chickenbone Lake is a beautiful campground with a similar setup to South Desor. The main difference between the two sites is West Chickenboke offers direct lake access as opposed to the short .1 mile hike to water at Desor. From this site packrafters and anglers would easily be able to try their hand at harvesting the many lake trout and northern pike the island has to offer. I wish I’d brought my rod because I watched another camper pull four lake trout out of Chickenbone in just a few hours.
The sheer size of Chickenbone Lake beckons wildlife to frequent its shores. Sounds of loons, geese, and squirrels echoed throughout the evening, and overnight I was awakened by the grunt of a moose letting me know I was encroaching on its territory. The moose quickly came to terms with my squatting as the sounds of grunting gave way to a galloping retreat into the woods.
Weather can turn for the worse quickly and unexpectedly on Lake Superior. Overnight, the beautiful blue skies gave way to a tremendous thunderstorm that continued into the morning of day three. The rain subsided briefly enough for me to quickly break camp, don my rain gear, and hit the trail for a much easier 8 miles. No sooner had I finished waterproofing my pack that the rain returned.
I was in for an adventure.
I don’t know about you, but this typed of uncomfortableness awakens the adventurer in me.
The trek towards Daisy Farm began as a wade through waist high vegetation. This section of the Greenstone Ridge Trail is sandwiched between two large inland lakes. This location creates supreme lushness, and invites wildlife. Beaver dams were numerous, oftentimes flooding the trail (again). Backpackers would need to rely on a bit more route-finding to detour nature’s obstacles while avoiding being bogged down in the swamp. The 8 miles to camp are again characterized by a series of inclines and declines that gradually ascend towards the ridge, offering panoramic views of the forest and lake superior.
Coming into Daisy Farm was once again unique. The Daisy Farm trail junction is a little over five miles into the day’s journey. From there I took the Daisy Farm trail for about 2.5 miles to the campsite. Those two miles are spent on a beautiful wetland descent until the trail reaches its awe inspiring, albeit abrupt terminus on the shores of Lake Superior.
By wilderness campground standards, the sites at Daisy Farm are The Four Seasons. Nearly 20 of the sites include screened shelters, a picnic table, and immediate lake access. I chose to pitch my tent inside the shelter for extra bug protection, but the shelters are tidy so it is optional. Daisy Farm also includes a large boat dock and several other tent only (non-shelter) sites.
Once at Daisy Farm I was conflicted. The views were amazing and I was feeling great, but my journey was reaching its end and I really didn’t want to leave the island. All that remained was a beautiful 7mile rock scurry on the shores of Lake Superior to the harbor.
Looking south at Lake Superior!
7 miles to the terminus. 7 miles of some of the most beautiful backpacking views imaginable. The views on this leg of the journey had me wishing for an additional 7 miles. The journey to Rock Harbor follows the island’s southern perimeter eastward, through mixed forest, before giving way to the exposed stone that also lines the ridge. Being blanketed by dense forest to the north, and Lake Superior’s vastness to the south, was awesome! There were numerous opportunities to take great photos, rest at the most picturesque watering hole in Michigan, and just be mesmerized by all of nature’s beauty. Travelers on this stretch of trail, who are able to break the hypnotic spell of natures wonder, are also likely to encounter a moose (in the unlikely event one hasn’t already been spotted), one of the islands famous inhabitants.
I made it to Rock Harbor!
Then you arrive in Rock Harbor.
Because of the ease of travel, and incomparable beauty of the surroundings, the arrival in Rock Harbor actually surprised me. I was left feeling “Oh I’m here already?!”
Rock harbor provides many amenities such as a ranger station, a gift shop, two restaurants, a motel, and a full service restroom with showers; perfect for those concluding their trip. From there I returned back to Houghton on the seaplane and began the drive back home with a full heart, full GoPro, and great memories!
For those seeking the adventures of the wilderness, and the unimaginable beauty of the natural, world look no farther than Isle Royale National Park.
I hope to see you out there!
We Out Here
We Been Here
